The Illegal Art

By Patty "PadlynnPidge" Doyle

Strolling down the urban streets in Poland, one might notice an odd juxtaposition of ancient buildings and bright colorful, sometimes offensive graffiti.  Most of the time it is displaying a moniker of a tagger or a hooligans preference in soccer, but once in a while you get big beautiful murals. Sometimes cities set up "practice walls" to help deter graffiti artists from tagging on precious facades. 

There are different styles of graffiti you can see in Poland. Those previously mentioned murals and quick draw words, and then you have stencils, which are handy for a flick-of-the-wrist personalized footprint. Also it is easy to get a lot of these done in a night. The only downside is you are carrying a lot of evidence with you if you get busted. Another kind is sticker graffiti- or "slaps"- these are nice and fast to put up on anywhere from signs to bathroom stalls. A larger variation of this is wheat-pasting. This is when you coat a poster or something along those lines with wheat-paste. This is a very tricky process, but it sticks. There are many other types of more "avant-garde" graffiti, but these are the basic ones. 

The big question in the graffiti and law enforcement world is should these people be punished for their art? It seems practice walls are helping. Luckily as a passerby we can just enjoy the view.

Heading East

By August Kochanowski

Once in every man’s life he is faced with the questions: Who am I?  Where did I come from?  These questions were answered for me upon coming to Poland and getting to see the place of my roots, first hand.  In particular, visiting the city of Zamość and seeing the surrounding countryside had a strong pull for me.  Both of my Grandparents were from this region of Poland and being able to walk the same streets as them, hearing the same church bells ring as they did, was a fascinating experience. 

Eastern Poland is mainly farm land of rolling hills and small picturesque villages.  Today it seems poorer than its neighbor to the west, Lesser Poland, but at one time it was very wealthy and influential which you can see in the array of castles and palaces that cover this region.  In all, we toured three castes, all of which where amazing to see, but my favorite was Krzyztopor Castle.  Like the rest of Poland it has seen its fare share of turmoil.  In 1655 the Swedes sacked and plundered the castle.  Today it is a labyrinth of honeycombed, bombed out walls that you can freely explore. 

The city of Zamość is a truly spectacular place.  Once you make the turn into the main square of town you’ll be amazed to find that you have just walked into what appears to be Italy. The square is lined with old arcaded burghers’ houses that look like they have been trapped in time.  The main focus of the square is the towering city hall that beckons you to climb its elegant stairs.  One more thing worth mentioning is the people.  After spending a significant amount of time in the bustling city of Kraków where almost everyone speaks perfect English, and then coming to a small town (hardly touched by tourists) where absolutely no one speaks English, it was truly like stepping in to my grandparent’s Poland.        

Krzysztopor Castle – a World in Ruins

By Elia Olson

During my travels in Poland our group had the fortune of traveling to Eastern Poland, specifically to the small town of Ujazd.  Although we did not get to see the center of this small town, I believe we saw its greatest treasure, Krzysztopor Castle.  This castle is truly a magnificent sight to see and I could have spent all day there but what makes it even more incredible is the state that this glorious place is currently in.

Krzysztopor Castle was built by a rich magnate Ossolinski in the 17th century as a fortress but was to show how wealthy the owner was.  It had 365 windows, 52 rooms, 12 ballrooms and a huge aquarium in addition to other outlandish adornments.  Although this castle was magnificent, in only had a few short years of glory before the Swedish army came in and looted it in 1656.  After this looting, the castle quickly deteriorated to its present state of the largest ruin in all of Poland.

During our trip to Ujazd, we found Krzysztopor Castle in its current state and I was completely blown away by how magnificent it still felt.  Walking and exploring through all the hallways, tunnels, staircases, ballrooms and long courtyards I could only think of how beautiful this place would have been in the 17th century when it was fully furnished and kept up instead of only being a few walls here and there with grass grown up all over the place.  I have always been fascinated by history but always felt that the really cool parts of history were only talked about, never experienced.  Usually in Europe, the really cool places are sectioned off and you can only see part of whatever is left and you have to get all the history from those few rooms.  Krzysztopor Castle is fortunately nothing like that.  One can explore unhindered through every part of that glorious castle and can take as many pictures as one may like.  The lack of rules of this place also made it one of my favorite places because I was given complete access to the history there, not an abridged version somebody thought was complete enough.

If you ever get the chance to come to Poland, Krzysztopor Castle in Ujazd is one place you should not miss. Also as the funds for keeping such relics up is dwindling, you better come quick or the ruins I had the pleasure of exploring may not be there for your viewing pleasure.

The Rule is, Walk To-morrow and Walk Yesterday- But Never Walk To-day

By Elizabeth Kotz

What is there to talk about, when one talks about walking? I could mention the conversations that seem to be fueled by a good walk, the hours I’ve lost while walking in circles (lost) or the hidden spots I’ve found while doing nothing, really, only walking. Going for a walk abroad is a treat, and an opportunity to try on a disguise. Wearing the hat of an ordinary Polish flâneur affords one the chance to peek into shop windows, meander through grocery stores, and- perhaps best of all- stare at others doing the same. The only downside I’ve found is the inevitable wear and tear of my feet and the destruction of my excuses for shoes.

It could be said, probably correctly, that Americans have forgotten how to walk. We are exceptionally adept at pressing our right foot down on a gas pedal, but when it comes to good old-fashioned voyeurism we’ve gone indoors and burrowed into computer screens. Krakow’s Rynek is nothing if not a fashion show, a place to see and be seen… And it is accessible only if one gets there on foot. In Eastern Europe one’s own feet are usually are the most enjoyable means of getting somewhere, though not particularly fast, fresh air smells better than a cramped bus or tram. Though both will dump you at your destination in a somewhat timely fashion, you’ll miss tucked away markets, unexplored alleys and run-ins with those loveably strange characters who haunt streets at all hours. I should be walking right now in fact, instead of sitting inside eating too much again and feeling that much more like an American fish out of water.

Kraków's Must-See Destinations

By Jessica Douglas

Krakow has become a popular tourist destination in recent years, due to its reasonable prices, cultural offerings, and exciting night life. It is pleasant enough for a short visit, but even better for a longer stay, when one can take in all the sights and customs at an unhurried pace. Home to many architectural and artistic masterpieces, there are some which should certainly not be missed on any tour of Krakow, no matter how short.

Mariacki Church, also known as St. Mary’s, dominates Rynek Glowny with its two towers. A bugle call erupts from the taller tower every hour in each of the tower’s four corners. While this is a wonderful sight, and it is enjoyable to see if the bugler will wave at you when he is finished, this is  nothing compared to the glory which awaits a curious visitor who actually enters the Church. Inside the church resides two masterpieces of carving done by Vitt Stwosz…an altarpiece, roughly twenty feet high and carved of linden wood ,and a crucifix, both dating to the same time in which Leonardo di Vinci painted the stunning Lady With An Ermine, also on display at the Czartoryski Museum, just down the street from Wawel Castle.

Wawel Castle and Cathedral has some priceless artifacts of its own, including one of the three surviving groups of medieval orthodox paintings to be found in Poland, the amazing gothic sarcophagus of King Sigismund III, and the crypt of Adam Mickiewicz, poet and Polish cultural icon.

 For those who feel a bit daring there is a journey up to the bell tower, where it is said that if one touches the heart of the bell (called the clapper in America) with their left hand, all their dreams will come true. And what trip to Krakow would be complete without a trip high above the castle and city on a hot air balloon?

This is just a short list of must-sees within Krakow’s Old Town. For every taste, there is likely to be an expression, and for every expression, there is likely a place to see. From Art Nouveau to Gothic, Eclecticism to Post-Communist, there is a new face of Krakow waiting around every corner. One thing is for certain, there is no shortage of sights and experiences in this European cultural center.

All Saints Day

By Annella Kochanowski

Tradition is very important in my family as it is in the Polish culture.  However, one tradition I was completely unaware of coming to Poland was the significance of the first of November, All Saints Day.  Wszystkich Świętych in Polish, this holiday has Pagan roots but has evolved into a very Catholic tradition.  Poland adopted Christianity in 966 after Mieszko I, the first historic ruler of Poland, married the Bohemian princess Dobrawa and was baptized.  This leads one to the conclusion that, like many other Polish traditions, All Saints Day has been celebrated for centuries.
   
I will never forget Visiting Rakowicki Cemetery on this special holiday; it was unlike anything I’d ever seen before.  The brisk November air, fallen leaves in all their autumnal glory and flocks of people making their way through the maze of tombstones (some so ancient the inscriptions are impossible to make out) all added to the already sedate and somber atmosphere.  Back home, the only time people congregate in a graveyard is for a funeral and, even then, the majority of the place is empty.  I was amazed at how many people came to pay their respects and remember loved ones passed on All Saints Day.  Once night fell it was all the more spectacular seeing every tombstone covered in candles and adorned with flowers.  The cemetery looked as if on fire there were so many candles lit (there were literally thousands of them).
   
Halloween, I learned, is not observed here, but children can still get their candy fix.  A variety of booths are set up outside the cemetery where vendors sell an assortment of candles, flowers, food and an enticing array of different candies.  In my opinion the best part of All Saints Day is seeing families get together to carry on this tradition and remember their loved ones.

An Exploration of Ireland

By Jessica Kieleszewski

After spending a couple of months in what’s dubbed Central “Eastern” Europe, I was excited for our nine day break in November.  I, along with a fellow classmate, Kathy Kryj had chosen to visit Ireland.  On our first sight of Ireland from the plane, we knew we were far from Poland.  There was water everywhere, the landscape was entirely green, very little concrete and pavement, if not just scatterings of it.  We based our hotel in Limerick, and spent our full seven days there, while taking bus trips to other cities using the Bus Eirann transportation system (wonderful by the way, and cheap).  After our arrival, on the next day, we spent our first official day in Ireland just getting to know Limerick, buying maps, and of course, having traditional fish and chips at a restaurant recommended by a security guard at the Hunt Museum. While walking the city it was interesting to see all of the signs both in English and in Gaeligh.  Walking in one direction, the ground would say “STOPLOOK”, walking in another it would say “STADFÉACH”.  Walking In Limerick, along the river Shannon, you see these little red ring buoys with a motto on the case, “A stolen ring buoy - a stolen life”, my companion and I laughed when we later saw one stuck in a tree on the side of the river near one of the bridges.

On day two we made our way to Cork, similar in size to Limerick, only slightly more touristy, we saw Blackrock castle, really more of a fortress which was restored and converted into a science museum and café.  We then preceded to attempt to find a place called Dundanion Castle, ruins to be honest… and ruins they were.  We had to cross a mucky meadow, technically a park, and climb up the side of a hill just to see a part of what still existed inside of the barbed wire fence filled with debris, my companion slipped down the hill three times on our way down from the castle, but wasn’t seriously injured.  

The third place we visited on our trip was Dingle, a beautiful, small, quaint harbor town on the west coast of Ireland, located on Dingle Peninsula, Irelands west-most point.  Dingle was once stated by the National Geographic as “one of the most beautiful places on earth” and when we got there and walked around, we could see why.  Unless you’re driving, it’s hard to get around the peninsula, but from what we were able to see on foot, it was well worth the journey, as was the bus ride through Tralee Bay. 

Our final official journey was to Blarney Castle, one of Irelands oldest and most famous castles, and yes, we both kissed the Blarney Stone.  And yes, it was terrifying.  For anybody unaware of what the Blarney Stone is, it’s a stone placed at the bottom of a wall set off of its foundation at the top of a tower on the castle.  While we were at Blarney Castle we ventured into the Grove, a beautiful place with waterfalls and rock formations, even more than the castle, this was my favorite part of the estate.
After experiencing Ireland and its vast difference from Poland, it was a nice change in the semester.  The people were friendly, happy to have a chat and help you find your way, I look forward to visiting again some day.